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Greg Clayfield joins Zema Estate

The Zema family has announced that Greg Clayfield is their new Winemaker for the 2006 vintage and onwards.

Greg is a big winemaking name. He brings with him an impressive 29 year track record in Winemaking and Winery Management including appointments with Rouge Homme (1978-1991), Wynns Coonawarra Estate (1991-2005), numerous wine show accolades and being awarded the 1988 International Winemaker of the Year.

Greg is Coonawarra born and bred and was first drawn to the world of winemaking after many years riding the school bus up and down the terra rossa strip and observing the activity and growth of the local wine industry. Greg's enthusiasm and interest in wine saw him helping out at local wineries during vintage before going on to complete a Diploma in Oenology at Roseworthy College , South Australia in 1977.  Greg has known the Zema family since the early 1960s and observed them establish one of Coonawarra's most respected wineries.

"To work at a winery that I have been able to watch being built from scratch and be involved with a Family that I have a long term association with and a lot of respect for presents itself as a great opportunity." Greg said. "I was delighted when the Zema Family approached me shortly after I left my previous employment. My winemaking plans are quite simple in terms of the fact that the styles and quality are well established. Zema Estate's traditional 'hands on' approach to viticulture is also highly regarded. There is a good diversity of vineyards that provide a great strategic mix ranging from the subtly cooler Cluny block at the southern end of the renowned terra rossa strip to the comparatively riper and drier Glenroy block at the northern end of Coonawarra. These are both complimented by the home block which sits right in the heart of the original John Riddoch Coonawarra Fruit Colony in Coonawarra which features great older Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon vines and is also the site of the winery and Cellar Door ."

Greg will replace Tom Simons who is moving on in June after 7 vintages with Zema Estate to develop his family's newly acquired agricultural interests in Victoria . The Zema family wish to acknowledge Tom's significant contribution, sincerely thanks him for his hard work and commitment and wish him and his family every success.   

This appointment comes hot on the heels of another signifcant appointment at Zema - that of Karen Ronning in the key marketing and publicity role. Karen is one of the best in the business - if you think that Zema have been a bit quiet in recent years, expect that to be turned around soon.

The good news and the bad news for Clive Otto

It's an incredible irony - though a sad one. Margaret River winemaker Clive Otto, until recently the long-time head winemaker at the prestigious Vasse Felix, was named the Australian Winemaker of the Year 2005 at the ninth Winestate magazine wine awards last Saturday night - even though he is currently unemployed. Six weeks ago he was made redundant by the Holmes a Court family, owners of the winery.

Clive is not the only one on the move at Vasse Felix, with Managing Director Bob Baker, Chief Financial Executive Anthony Nelson and new Financial Executive Leo Kiosses all leaving the company in recent weeks.

Clive Otto, one of the most popular winemakers in the Margaret River region, had completed 16 vintages with Vasse. On receiving this week's winemaking award, Clive reflected on the advice of his original mentor at Vasse Felix, David Gregg, who impressed on him the importance of balance, depth of flavour and drinkability.

"It's important to have bucket loads of passion. Winemaking should be fun and something to be enjoyed. I've always tried to create a good working atmosphere in the cellar and I really think that has been part of the success of Vasse Felix wines."

"Attention to detail is also important. A winemaker should always get out into the cellar and get his hands dirty," Clive said.

Clive Otto now finds himself in the unenviable position of being at the top of his field - but out of work. He wants to stay in the Margaret River area if possible - though accepts that he may have to look further afield. Last week Clive toured Victoria 's Mornington Peninsula, tasting pinot noir and chardonnay.

Just what his, and indeed Vasse Felix's, future holds seems quite unclear.

Clive Otto can be contacted on 0417 187 571

POSTSCRIPT: Clive was recently appointed as head winemaker at Fraser Gallop, a new winery in the Margaret River region with signifcant ambitions.

And in more breaking winemaker news ...

Gun winemaker Dan Dineen, most recently of Tower Estate in the Hunter Valley though of course, formerly of both Brokenwood and Mount Pleasant, has upped and left - and headed to New Zealand with gun winemaking partner Sarah-Kate Dineen (most recently of Tempus Two). The word is that they're going to set up a contract winemaking business and, more interestingly, work on Sarah-Kate Dineen's parent's vineyard estate ... likely developing their own label. Whatever the gig, it's bound to be a bonza one. The Tower Estate job was one of the plummest in the country - both Sarah-Kate and Dan are prize losses to the Hunter Valley, both as winemakers and community members.

So who's taking over from Dan at Tower - and gets to work in one of the most stylish, sophisticated, and efficient of wineries?

Scott Stephens, most recently (though the relationship didn't last long) of De Bortoli's Hunter Valley venture, though before then of McWilliam's Mount Pleasant. To Scott, the spoils. Good luck to him. A committed terroirist, he should be perfect for Tower.

Winery website: www.towerestate.com

Diamond Valley Vineyards sold

23 February 2005

The ongoing overhaul of the Yarra Valley continues, with leading producer Diamond Valley Vineyards sold this week to Graeme Rathbone. Although much confusion is likely to prevail, the purchase by Graeme Rathbone does not in any way form part of the Rathbone Family's elite Yering Station, Mount Langhi Ghiran, and Parker Coonawarra Estate group of wine holdings - it is a totally separate venture by Graeme Rathbone, with the remainder of the Rathbone family keeping well clear.

The arrangement of the sale too is a somewhat complex one. Graeme Rathbone has bought the business and brand, but not the vineyards, land or winery. James Lance will continue to make the wines, and founders David and Catherine will continue their input - albeit in a quieter way.

Of note in the announcement of the sale included the words: "To celebrate this new era, Diamond Valley will soon release a shiraz-viognier to complement the Blue Label collection".

The reputation of Yering Station has surged on the back of shiraz-viognier, and it would seem Graeme Rathbone - who is a Director at Yering Station - has similar plans for Diamond Valley.

The Yarra Valley will be a different place in 5-10 years: Yarra Yering is currently on the market, Diamond Valley has been sold, Dr John Middleton is in his 80s, De Bortoli is shifting its emphasis to more French-influenced ideals and makers like Hillcrest, Yering Station, and Toolangi seem most likely as the next generation of stars.

Winery website: www.diamondvalley.com.au

 

Maurice O'Shea Award winner announced

The plummest individual award in Australian wine was announced last night, with pioneering winemaker Guenter Prass announced as the 2004 winner. The Maurice O'Shea Award is presented to an individual, institute or corporation who has made an historically significant contribution to the Australian wine industry.

Never was an award more deserved. One of the original flying winemakers, he came to Australia from Germany in 1955 and quickly helped give Australia the competitive winemaking advantage that helped lift it to today's commercial heights - it was leaders like Guenter Prass who helped give the Australian wine industry the jump on the rest of the winemaking world.

He did it, simply, by introducing better handling techniques. Controlled fermentation, sterile bottling, stainless steel fermentation tanks for white wines - were all introduced by Guenter Prass. As simple as they sound now, they were a revolution. They helped make clean, bright, fresh, fruit-highlighted wines more possible and probable than ever. In short, they helped create the white wine boom. They helped Australia capture its sunshine in a bottle, and thus export it to the world. The rampant worldwide commercial success of Australian chardonnay stems back, at its roots, to Guenter Prass.

"I arrived in Australia at a time when the Australian wine industry and Australian drinking habits were in their infancy and on the brink of major change. I was fortunate to be part of the leading team that generated incredible change; applying my technical skills and experience in making these new generation wines and supporting the far reaching developments," he said.

A former prisoner of war, Guenter Prass is the man who developed Barossa Pearl, a wine whose enormous success in the Australian domestic market in the 1950s and 60s is credited with having helped change Australian drinking habits from fortified wine to table wine.

He was also working at Orlando, as technical director, when brand's like Jacob's Creek and Coolabah were created - which he helped take to the world. "It wasn't easy at the time, my knuckles bled from knocking on so many doors but eventually they opened. Around 1986, following the drop in the Australian dollar and Chernobyl, interest in Australian wine grew and the Jacob's Creek brand was launched.

"Australian wine," he continued, "is an incredible product and I was fortunate to work on both the production and management sides to help realise the full potential of this resource."

In accepting the award, a humbled Guetner Prass said: "The best indication of how far Australian wine has come is that I was one of the first flying winemakers, in coming to Australia. Today, winemakers from all over the world come to Australia to learn what we are doing rather than to teach us."

Guenter Prass joins a distinguishes list of Maurice O'Shea Award winners. Past winners are:

* Max Schubert
* Len Evans
* Ron Potter
* David Wynn
* Jacob's Creek (the brand itself)
* James Halliday
* Hazel Murphy
* Brian Croser
* Bryce Rankin
* Wolf Blass
* The Australian Wine Research Institute
* Guenter Prass

Winery website: www.mcwilliams.com.au

 

Giaconda drops 2003 bombshell

After much speculation over the extent of fire or heat damage to the 2003-vintage wines of the Beechworth area in North-East Victoria, the area's most prestigious boutique winery, Giaconda, has dropped a bombshell, with news that it will not release either an estate chardonnay, pinot noir or shiraz from the 2003 vintage - even though a 2003 Giaconda Nantua Les Deux Chardonnay and 2003 Aeolia Roussanne, from a separate Beechworth vineyard, has already been released and sold.

This news points to more than just potential bush-fire smoke damage, as it's generally (though not unaminously) considered that smoke does not affect white wine grapes (as they are generally not fermented on their skins). The culling of the estate chardonnay points to the sheer, prolonged, drought-struck heat of the vintage as the key problem of the year.

A release from Giaconda winemaker and founder Rick Kinzbrunner today simply read: "There will be no Giaconda wines released this year except the Cabernet. We feel 2003 was not a year which gave us good enough quality for Giaconda wines as we have always kept our standards at the absolute highest level. As many of you know 2003 was an extremely hot year - one of the worst droughts for a long time with severe bushfires in January and February. The Cabernet being much later ripening basically escaped all this and this has given an excellent wine as generally we need hotter years to make great Cabernet.

"The consequence of not releasing the 2003 has enabled us to do something we have thought about for a long time - to release a portion of the 2004 wines now 'en primeur'. Full details of this are included with the ordering information on the website from November 15. I feel this system is a matter of trust and the fact that we have not released the 2003 should further reinforce your confidence in our wines. I will give brief barrel tasting notes, but I can tell you 2004 is an impeccable vintage and the wines will be outstanding. Of course we have not forgotten that you will be paying for the wine well before you receive it and it will therefore be offered at a substantial price advantage to the later release.

"As many of you know the current debate about corks is a hot topic. This system of 'en primeur' has enabled us to give you the choice! When you make your 'en primeur' order you can specify screw cap or cork!

"I'll let you know a few of my personal thoughts on this matter. The cork issue is a real problem and every winery that uses corks gets some corked wines but we have virtually no redress against the cork merchant.

"I believe a wine aged under a good cork will always be superior, while a wine under a screw cap will obviously always be a standardised, reliable product. But like life itself wine is an exciting thing - it has its highs and lows, its excitement and its failures."

Kinzbrunner continued: " A little bit about our progress in the winery and vineyard: As many of you who visit the winery know my assistant Peter Graham (who is also my nephew) is really coming of age in his wine and vineyard skills. This helps to give me a new lease of life so to speak and together we have developed lots of new techniques in the vineyard and winery.

"Regarding the Chardonnay, we can now make it more complex yet fresher and more youthful with lower alcohol and more refinement than we have been getting in the last few years; this means wines more like those in the mid-nineties.

"As for the reds we have some exciting new techniques in the vineyard and winemaking, these are quite different to how we have been producing reds in the past. We now manage the vineyard and winemaking to make the wines more refined with lower alcohol without sacrificing power or depth. This is especially evident in our tannin management - we are getting more powerful tannins, but they are very fine and are giving the wines tremendous backbone and length.

"I believe global warming is a reality and that some years in the future it will be more difficult for Pinot Noir in this area. To combat this we are gradually shifting Pinot production to our other vineyard (where Nantua and Warner Shiraz are produced) which is about 150 meters higher in altitude than Giaconda. We have a nice block of Pinot tucked down beside the creek in a very cool site and this is now coming of age as it was planted in 1996. It is starting to give superb Pinot and in the last two vintages some of this has been included in Giaconda Pinot and I think this has resulted in a much better wine.

"Thus you can look forward to some really improved Pinot in the future, but the down side of this is there will be less available!

"A good portion of the Giaconda Pinot Noir is being grafted over to Chardonnay and as this is in the coolest part of the Giaconda site it will give us some Chardonnay in a cooler area which will also augment the quality of our Chardonnay, especially in hotter years. This will give us an extra quantity of Chardonnay from mature vines and a more complex vineyard blend resulting in better wine in both warmer and cooler years. "

Further news from Giaconda is that the 2003 cabernet (the only wine released from this vintage) can be ordered on the Giaconda website from November 15 and delivered May 2005. "The 2004 Giaconda vintage wines are offered ' en primeur' , a first for Giaconda and can also be ordered on the website from November 15 at reduced prices (approx 10-12% less than the pre-delivery price in November 2005 ) which include freight and delivered in May, 2006. (Minimum order one case 6x750ml). The balance of the 2004 vintage will be offered at pre-delivery prices in November, 2005 (our usual release date) and delivered May 2006. If you order ' en primeur' you have the choice of screw cap or cork closures. Part of all future vintages will be offered 'en primeur' in November of each year and a percentage will be held back for release in November the following year (our usual release date)."

It's fair to say that, from a pure wine viewpoint, this is one of the more significant decisions a winery has made in modern Australian wine history. Just how other producers in the Beechworth area take the news will be fascinating to see - though preliminary tastings of barrel samples (by Winefront Monthly) of Castagna shiraz and Savaterre chardonnay from 2003 show that the wines are, in the opinion of Winefront Monthly, soild and sound, if though showing that it was indeed a tougher year in the area than either 2002 or 2004.

Winefront Monthly will no doubt report further, and at length, on this issue in the very near future.

Winery website: www.giaconda.com.au

Louisa Rose given the 2004 Women in Wine Award

Funny name for an award but thoroughly deserved - Yalumba's Louisa Rose has been named the Internation Wine and Spirit 2004 Women in Wine award recipient for her ongoing, and impressive, work with riesling and viognier in South Australia.

On accepting the award in London Louis Rose said "Leading the charge with viognier in Australia has been an incredibly rewarding journey ... out commitment is such that Yalumba is now one of the world's most influential producers of viognier."

Winery website: www.yalumba.com

More to Andrew Caillard than meets the eye

The debut exhibition of oil paintings by wine guru/wine auctioneer Andrew Caillard MW will be held at The Depot Gallery, 2 Danks Street, Waterloo  from the 19th to 30th October. Although best known for his work with wine, painting has - it very much seems - been a life-long enthusiasm.

The exhibition comprises several large paintings along the themes of the Australian Landscape as well as Claude Monet's garden - Giverny.  The compositions are generally circular in motion with warped horizons, vertical reflections and vivid colour - evocative of place and country.  Subject matter includes the Barossa Valley South Australia, the Tahune Forest in Tasmania, the Blue Mountains and the giant Karri forest near Margaret River Western Australia.

Caillard says, "I chose not to focus particularly on wine related themes for my first exhibition.  However, like fine wine, these highly involved pictures capture the essence of place rather than a moment in time."

The paintings to be exhibited can be previewed at:
www.imageevent.com/caillard

 

Here we go again: The annual Aussie plunge at the London International Wine and Spirit Competition

It's almost monotonous - but the Australian representatives at the 2004 London International Wine and Spirit Competition have again taken a strangehold on proceedings, winning a total of 32 gold medals overall,compared to France's 18 (10 for Champagne), South Africa's 8 and the USA's two.

While there is likely little doubt that Australian wineries take this competition more seriously (read: VERY) than the French, just why Australian wine continues to outshine the efforts of other bustling wine nations at this show is harder to fathom.

Indeed, it makes the recent British-lead grumblings that Australian wines are dull and boring seem a little dull and boring themselves - after all, if they're so boring, why keep handing them gold medals?

One winery feeling particularly happy about proceedings is the Yarra Valley's Yering Station - which took out the Best Pinot Noir Trophy with its 2002 Yering Station Reserve Pinot Noir 2002. Considering a) that Yering Station winemaker Tom Carson has been one of the leading Yarra Valley proponents for the valley's general - and sometimes controversial - push away from cabernet-based wines and towards pinot noir, and b) that this victory follows near-immediately in the wake of the 2000 Reserve Pinot Noir winning the same award in 2002 - Yering Station's satisfaction is well understood.

Not that Yering Station's joy stops there. Its Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier 2002 and Yarrabank Cuvee 1998 (made as part of a joint venture with Champagne Devaux) also received gold medals, which was enough to promote it to the shortlist for the ‘Schenker International Australian Wine Producer of the Year’.

More details will, no doubt, eventually appear on the competition's website at www.iwsc.net

Winery website: www.yering.com

With a waft of oak-smoke trailing in his wake, Johnny Glaetzer hangs up his tasting glass

It had to happen sometime - though many long-time dyed-in-the-wool Australian red wine drinkers may have been hoping that it never did. Legendary red wine maker John Glaetzer, after more than three decades of award winning winemaking, has decided to 'hang up his tasting glass'. He retires an Australian wine industry legend.

In his 30 years at Wolf Blass, John's passion for winemaking excellence has seen many of his wines win multiple trophies and gold medals, critical acclaim and world renown.

John was the first winemaker employed by Wolf Blass in 1974, in the years when Wolf Blass wines was based in a humble tin shed in the Barossa Valley. Every year since, John has been making red wines at the Wolf Blass winery - many a time with a cigarette not too far away.

John will retire from his current full time position at Wolf Blass at the end of July to concentrate more of his time on family life and to focus on his John's Blend Wine Company. 

While John will no longer be working full time at Wolf Blass, he will remain in contact with the Wolf Blass winemaking and viticulture teams in a mentoring capacity - and the next generation of winemakers will benefit from his masterful blending skills and exacting standards. 

"It is hard to know where to start when recounting John's remarkable career - the countless winemaking accolades or the hundreds of show judging appearances," said Chris Hatcher, Wolf Blass Chief Winemaker.   "During his three decade tenure John has been responsible for the creation of the hugely popular Yellow Label, the multiple award-winning Black Label, the continuing evolution of the Wolf Blass style, and the creation of the President's Selection for international markets.

"John makes wines that people want to drink. He makes wines with softness and richness of flavour and famously matures his wines in the very best oak barrels. Among Australian winemaking circles, John is renowned as the man who coined the famous phrase "No wood: no good".

"His influence on Wolf Blass wines is clear, with much of what we do today still following his original winemaking philosophy," Chris said. " While John will be missed he is congratulated on what has been an outstanding career and contribution to the Australian winemaking industry as a whole."

John has unquestionably been one of Australia's most influential red winemakers, having won four Jimmy Watson Trophies in 1974, 75, 76 and 1999, and 11 Montgomery Trophies for the best red wine at the Royal Adelaide Wine Show. He also played a critical role in the Wolf Blass winery being awarded Best International Winemaker at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in 1992 and 2002.

As is always the case with most long-term winemakers the style f his wines has, of late, caught up with him - with the trend away from hugely-wooded wines. Still, his eminence and achievement is unmistakable and near unrivalled.

John was declared an official "Baron of the Barossa", alongside legends like Wolf Blass, Peter Lehmann and Stephen Henschke, in 1996 and he was appointed a Legend of Langhorne Creek in 1999.

Winery website: www.beringerblass.com.au

Holy Calliope - Buller takes out public prize

The Bullers Calliope Shiraz 2002 had a good time at the recent Great Shiraz Challenge at Edinburgh Cellars in Adelaide - winning best shiraz of the day. The vote - or annual bunfight - is conducted by about 600 wine-mad enthusiasts who are "challenged" to get through about 260 shiraz wines in a day, and then vote on their best - if they're still upright or haven't rushed off to their dentist.

It's not a bad contest to win though - public-voted contests are far more exciting than those judged by people with reputations to protect - which explains Andrew Buller's excitement. "We are extremely proud of this award as the people who voted are the people who actually consume our products. It¹s great to know that you are making wine that appeals to your customers. It is an excellent endorsement of the quality and style of the 2002 Calliope Shiraz."

The 2002 Buller Calliope Shiraz retails for $40 - $45. It's a big, black, rocketfuel-type wine that leaps out of the glass with alcohol and baked fruit magnificence. It also weighs in at 16% alcohol, which almost makes the fortifying licence seem redundant.

Both this and the 2002 Calliope Durif will be reviewed, fearlessly and in full, in the next edition of Winefront Monthly (available only to subscribers).

Winery website: www.buller.com.au

Graveyard Shiraz helps nail the cork coffin

Brokenwood has put both feet firmly in the pro-screwcap camp with both its premium reds - the Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz 2002 and McLaren Vale Rayner Shiraz 2002 - now sealed with a screwcap.

"We didn't take this decision lightly," Chief winemaker Iain Riggs said, "but eventually it was an easy one. We're sick and tired of cork taint and random oxidation spoiling ... bottles of wine."

The release of these wines came with a press release that stated "this move shows Brokenwood's faith in the bottle-ageing of red wines under the screwcap seal.

"Red wines spend between one and two years in 225 litre oak barrels - a moderately oxidative environment. While dissolved oxygen gas is kept to a minimum at bottling, oxygen is present in many compounds such as phenolics, so beneficial oxidative change will still occur," the release stated.

It went on: "The rate of ageing is affected by many factors, with temperature particularly important. Brokenwood believes that ageing under screwcap will be at a rate similar to the very best cork."

The Graveyard shiraz - another nail in the coffin of corks?

Winery website: www.brokenwood.com.au

The Barossa's Kies winery "turns the corner"

Kies winery at the south end of the Barossa reckons it has "turned a bit of a corner" with the release of its 2002 reds - the claim implying that the reds of late have been a bit lacking.

The claim comes on the back of a successful showing for Kies wines at the recent Australian Boutique Wine Awards, where Kies put in the following performance:

* Award Winner, Sparkling red wine class: Kies 2002 Sparkling ‘Monkey Nut Tree’ Merlot

* Award Winner, Light red/rose wine class: Kies ‘Spring Cabernet’- Silver Medal

*Ranked 11th out of 198, Shiraz Class: Kies 2002 ‘Klauber Block’ Shiraz - Silver Medal

*Ranked 5th out of 50, Merlot class: Kies 2002 ‘Monkey Nut Tree’ Merlot - Bronze Medal

*Ranked 12th out of 113, Cabernet class: Kies 2002 ‘Chaff Mill’ Cabernet Sauvignon – Bronze medal .

The Kies reds are made by Jim and Joanne Irvine. They will be reviewed in next month's edition of Winefront Monthly.

Winery website: www.kieswines.com.au