Stefano Lubiana Collina Chardonnay 2012

Wonderful sense of nostalgia in CM’s note on this wine from a vintage that seems far, far away. As CM talks of his last visit ‘seven years ago’, there’s a wistfulness that washes over me. When you think about what’s transpired for Steve Lubiana and family since then, there’s plenty to unravel. Notably, the farm is now biodynamic, a labour that brings everything back into their vineyard, though 2012 may be before they were certified. Nice to see a marquee wine with some maturation on its side too. What’s happened to all of us since 2006, and prior since 1999, even 2012, I wager is many, many significant things. The wonder of wine, ey?

Glorious expression of chardonnay that marries a sense of power with undeniable grace. A seamless, full flavoured, yet lithe feel as it courses through the palate. Green apple, green melon and hazelnut in a fine mesh hemmed with oak and fine, mineral-like chalky texture. Really picks up some velocity through the mouth, yet the bouquet is wafts of delicate mixed floral and fruit scents, and a faint sniff of savoury, raw oat and almond meal. Seriously good wine here and will go the long haul. Still to young, even if impressive as a juvenile. Drink after decanting and resting, now.

Tasted : APR17
Alcohol : 13%
Price : $90
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2017 - 2027+
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