From the evocatively named Zapatista vineyard in Porongurup, Great Southern of Western Australia way. From the bottom up, a revolution from the vineyard? It’s a riesling that’s barrel fermented and sent to bottle unfined and unfiltered. Said it before, say it again, La Violetta is (outside of Western Australia where the locals are clued in), one of the most exciting Australian producers going around at the moment. Lot of creativity coupled to great excitement in finding variegated flavours of their various sites.

Texture is the motif here – slipperiness coupled to faintly bitter and soft, talc-like phenolics that shape the gentle sweetness of candied citrus fruit that jostles through the palate. It’s a beautifully aromatic wine too – florals, citrus, green apple and a lilt of Thai spice. A rolling, sliding fruit presence to taste with enough structure to satisfy the geeks but stacks of refreshment factor and drinkability to raise a smile on the dial of everyone else. Glorious, complex expression of fruit given some extra pep from winemaking. Cool booze.

Tasted : AUG13
Alcohol : 12.5%
Price : $40
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2013 - 2023
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