Giovanni Canonica Barolo Paiagallo 2010

Only three producers own land in Paiagallo, and only two make a single vineyard bottling from this patch near the township of Barolo: Mirafiore (only recently) and Canonica. Giovanni Canonica has a four acre plot, run organically, and made with no mucking about. Cement. Old oak. Into bottle with just a dash of sulphur. Mike Bennie pulled this wine, proudly, from his ManBag at lunch the other day and I wasted no time placing an order. They don’t make much. But just for the record… Importer: Giorgio de Maria Fun Wines.

Give it some time, give it some air, and it repays your patience in spades. Smells for all the world like a freshly opened pack of Ricola lollies – all alpine herbs, sweet licorice root, roses and cherry, with a whiff of new leather too. Medium bodied, supple, fleshy and very fine – melting tannin and beautiful acidity etches out the lines so clearly – again the alpine herbs and complex flavours, spice and succulence of fruit, and while it’s certainly tannic, there’s no shortage of seduction. Or length. Effortless. So much pleasure in every sip, unfolding and revealing layers as you contemplate its beauty.  


Tasted : Sep15
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $110
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2017 - 2030+

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