THE WINE FRONT

Found this lurking at the far back of the cellar - a wine I have never tasted before. First things first: it's fresh, bold, largely undeveloped and, if the cork holds up, destined to live for a good 20 or 30 years. That's the good news. The bad news is that it is very much like drinking dry port, with thick, overdone, warm black fruit hammering through the centre of the wine - the oak having been largely soaked up. It's good at what it does. In 2016 it will astound people at how 'youthful' it looks. But it will never be an especially classy drink. Drink: 2008-2021. 88 points.